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In 1932,
Gabrielle Chanel
加布里埃·香奈儿
long known for her custom jewelry feature
已凭由东方珍珠
in pearls of the orient and colorful gems
和彩色宝石创作服饰而闻名
turns her attention to the most precious of stones
首度将重点转到最珍贵的宝石上
The diamond.
钻石
Serendipitously.
机遇
Still reeling from the 1929 crisis,
1929年经济大萧条的阴影依旧笼罩
the diamond merchant single out man was a Chanel
珠宝商选择了香奈儿女士
over the grand jewelers of the Place Vend?me
而非芳登广场那些闻名已久的珠宝品牌
to give diamond its true brilliance.
相信她能使钻石绽放最夺目的光芒
So begins the most ephemeral
一个不可多得的
the most legendery of collections.
且具传奇性的珠宝系列诞生了
Simply.
简约
Gabrielle Chanel
嘉柏丽尔 香奈儿
simplifies jewelry settings
简化了珠宝镶嵌
rendering the previous styles out-of-date.
使之前的风格立刻过时
No longer is the stone itself supreme
宝石本身的价值不再凌驾于一切
but as in couture, line and pattern.
同时兼具线条和图案之美
She freely mounts and repurposes her diamonds
她随意安上或者取下那些钻石
as she once had dismantled the jewels
就像她曾拆卸重组
given by the Duke of Westminster to create new ornaments.
那些西敏公爵送给她的珠宝