We need to break the junk food cycle: how to fix Britain's failing food system
我们需要打破垃圾食品循环:如何修复英国每况愈下的食品系统
When I was younger, and at war with my own body, I was a sucker for diets.
当我年轻的时候,在与自己的身体作战时,我曾一度沉迷于节食。
I tried The Rotation Diet (Lose Up to a Pound a Day and Never Gain it Back), The Beverly Hills Diet (a 35-day programme, but I never made it past the first three days) and numerous punitive low-fat regimes involving raw carrots and dry crispbread.
我尝试过“交替饮食法”(号称“日瘦一斤,永不反弹”)、“比弗利山庄饮食法”(一个35天的计划,但我从来没有坚持超过三天)和许多惩罚性的低脂食谱,包括生胡萝卜和无糖饼干等。
None of them lasted long, but each time I broke a diet, I would soon be looking around for another, equally unrealistic, weight-loss plan. No matter how similar the new diet was to the last, it gave me a sense that I was doing something productive about what I saw as the problem of my body.
这些食谱我都没有坚持很久,但是每当我打破节食,我很快就会再度搜寻另一个同样不现实的减肥计划。无论新的计划和上一个相比有多么类似,它都让我觉得我在为自己眼中的身体问题做一些有意义的事情。
Personal weight-loss diets have a lot in common with obesity policies in England and beyond. For a start, the sheer quantity of these policies is astonishing.
个人减肥食谱与英国和其他国家的肥胖症政策有很多共同之处。首先,这些政策的数量之多令人吃惊。
Earlier this year, two researchers based at the University of Cambridge—Dolly Theis and Martin White—published a paper showing that from 1992 to 2020, there were no fewer than 689 separate obesity policies put forward in England.
今年早些时候,剑桥大学的两位研究人员多莉·西斯和马丁·怀特发表的一篇论文显示,从1992年到2020年,英格兰提出的独立肥胖症政策超过689项。
Like failed diets, almost none of these initiatives have been realised in any meaningful way. Instead, their main effect has been to remind people with obesity that the government views the mere existence of their bodies as a crisis.
和所有失败的节食食谱一样,这些提议几乎没有任何一个实现了其意义。相反,它们的主要作用是提醒肥胖症患者,光是他们的存在都被政府视为一场危机。
While England is not alone in failing to reduce the prevalence of obesity—the World Health Organization reports that it has more than tripled worldwide since 1975—"obesity policy" in England has been strikingly ineffective.
虽然英格兰并不是唯一一个未能降低肥胖率的国家——世界卫生组织的报告显示,自1975年以来,全球范围内的肥胖率已经增加了两倍多——但是英格兰的“肥胖症政策”却没有起到一点效果。
(I say England because since devolution, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland have their own separate health policies.)
(我说英格兰是因为自从权力下放后,苏格兰、威尔士和北爱尔兰都有了各自独立的居民健康相关的政策)。
Between 1993 and 2015, obesity among England's adult population rose from 14.9% to 26.9%. Twice as many adults in the UK are living with obesity as in Italy, Sweden or Switzerland.
1993年至2015年期间,英格兰成年人中的肥胖率从14.9%上升到了26.9%。在英国,患有肥胖症的成年人数量是意大利、瑞典或瑞士的两倍。
At the same time, levels of hunger in the UK are some of the highest in Europe. Nearly one in five 15-year-olds live in a household where the adults are food insecure, which is a fancy way of saying that they can't reliably afford enough food.
与此同时,英国的饥饿程度在欧洲是最高的。近五分之一的15岁儿童生活在一个成年人没有办法保障食物供给的家庭中,简单来说就是他们无法可靠地负担起充足的食物。
Covid has brought to the surface some hard truths about the British food system, and what a poor job it does of feeding the population as a whole.
新冠肺炎让人们看到了关于英国食品系统的一些残酷事实,以及英国在养活所有人口方面做得多么糟糕。
As the first lockdown hit in March 2020, plenty of better-off British households were able to carry on eating much as before, while millions more were plunged into food poverty.
在2020年3月的第一次封锁中,虽然有许多经济条件较好的英国家庭仍能像以前一样继续获取食物,但更多的人则陷入了食物贫困之中。
According to data from the Food Foundation, during the first two weeks of lockdown in the spring of 2020, the proportion of households facing food insecurity doubled to more than 15%.
英国食品基金会的数据显示,在2020年春季封锁的头两个星期,面临食品不足危机的家庭比例翻了一番,达到了15%以上。
Black and Asian people have been twice as likely to suffer hunger during the pandemic as their white counterparts.
黑人和亚洲人在大流行期间忍饥挨饿的可能性是白人的两倍。
As Marcus Rashford said in a letter to parliament about food poverty in June 2020, "this is a system failure". But it is a system failure that existed for decades before the pandemic at long last pushed it on to the national agenda.
正如马库斯·拉什福德在2020年6月给议会的一封关于食品贫困的信中所说,“这是一个系统故障”。但这是一个已经存在了几十年的系统故障,只不过这次新冠疫情把它最终推上了国家议程。