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Women surfers have been marketed very sexually.
人们对女性冲浪选手做的宣传广告是非常性感的。
You see a girl in a string bikini or a g-string standing on a beach,
你看到的是一个穿着吊带比基尼或丁字裤的美女站在沙滩上，
but when we go out there, it's totally different.
但我们去沙滩的时候，通常是一副截然不同的形象。
We're wearing full suits and hoods and booties and we're not trying to be sexy.
我们会穿全套的装备，戴上头罩，穿上短靴，性感不是我们想要的。
We're going out there to become stronger, better, more awesome humans.
我们冲浪是为了变得更强壮、更好，变成更酷的人。
Big wave surfing is really ferocious.
极限冲浪真的很可怕。
People have said that women can't surf it, but I do.
大家都说极限冲浪不是女人能做的事，但我能。
I'm Bianca Valenti and I'm a professional Big Wave Surfer in San Francisco, California.
我叫比安卡·瓦伦蒂，是一名加州旧金山的极限冲浪职业选手。
11 years ago is when I first surfed in San Francisco. I nearly drowned.
我第一次在旧金山冲浪是11年前的事，那一次我差点被淹死。
And that is when I decided I wanted to put in the time in and out of the water and start training to prepare and ride big waves.
也是从那时起，我决定花更多的时间泡在水里，决定开始接受训练，准备极限冲浪。
The water in San Francisco is really really cold.
旧金山的水刺骨的寒冷。
Sometimes there's even ice on the sand in the morning,
有时，早晨的沙滩上还有冰，
and when it's super cold you're hands are tingly.
特别冷的时候，手都会感到刺痛。
You have to have a really thick skin and you have to be very driven, determined, and motivated because this isn't Hawaii.
你必须有很厚的皮肤，必须有强大的信念，要非常坚定，因为这儿不是夏威夷。
Mavericks is a surf spot where gigantic waves break.
Mavericks是一个巨浪翻涌的冲浪之地。
It's been called the Mount Everest of surfing,
这里被人称为冲浪界的珠穆朗玛峰。
and it is located 20 minutes south of San Francisco.
从旧金山往南大约20分钟车程。
An average size wave is three to four feet.
一般冲浪的平均浪高在3-4英尺。
Mavericks starts breaking at 15 feet and there's been waves ridden there up to 100 feet.
Mavericks的浪最低也有15英尺，有时甚至高达100英尺。
People have died surfing Mavericks.
在Mavericks曾有人因冲浪送了命。
It is serious business. It is for experts only.
在这儿冲浪是一件很严肃的事情，只适合行家。
There's excitement, there's fear, adrenaline, nervousness, happiness.
有兴奋，有害怕，有激动，有紧张，也有快乐。
It's really every emotion at once.
所有的情感都将在瞬间爆发。
When I hear somebody say that women are not strong enough or good enough to surf big waves,
当我听人说女人不够强壮，或是不够优秀，不能在巨浪上冲浪，
I just start laughing because it makes me feel alive and I love it.
我就想笑，因为极限冲浪让我感受到自己还活着，我喜欢极限冲浪。
It's about challenging yourself,
极限冲浪事关自我挑战，
it's about persevering and overcoming obstacles,
事关毅力、克服困难，
and so it's a much deeper experience for me personally,
对我个人而言，这是一项很深刻的经历。
and that's why I embrace surfing in San Francisco.
这就是为什么我喜欢在旧金山冲浪的原因。
