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Beneath the (ap)peal
果皮（美味吸引力）之下
South Asia's long love affair with mangoes.
南亚与芒果的千年之恋。
"Hindustan is a country of few charms," observed Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, after conquering India in the 16th century.
"印度斯坦是一个没有魅力的国家，"扎希尔丁·穆罕默德·巴布尔在16世纪征服印度后评价道。
The founder of the Mughal empire was unimpressed by the handicrafts, horses, markets, people--and especially the fruit. He complained constantly about the lack of decent melons.
这位莫卧儿帝国的开国者对印度的手工艺品、马匹、市场、人民都没有留下特别的印象，尤其认为水果平平无奇。他不停地抱怨那里没有像样的瓜果。
But even grumpy Babur could not deny the pleasures of mangoes, which "when good, are very good". The mango, he concluded, is "the best fruit of Hindustan".
但即使是脾气暴躁的巴布尔也无法否认芒果的美味，"好吃的芒果味道非常好"。他总结道，芒果是"印度斯坦最好的水果"。
It is the national fruit of both India and Pakistan. Every region has a favourite variety, from the sublime Alphonso of western India to the sophisticated Dasheri of the north, sparking interminable arguments about which is best. (There is no wrong answer.)
芒果是印度和巴基斯坦的国之珍果。每个地区都有自己最爱的品种，从印度西部风味浓郁的阿方索芒果，到印度北部口感细腻的达谢里芒果，让人们没完没了地争论哪种芒果最好。（没有错误答案。）
Mango is used as an ingredient in chutney, daal, ice-cream, juice, sherbets and more. But mostly it is eaten alone: ripe, golden, with its juices trickling down the arms.
芒果被用作酸辣酱、扁豆汤、冰淇淋、果汁、冰糕等食物的原料。但芒果主要还是单独食用：成熟的金黄色芒果，（咬一口）汁液就顺着手臂流淌下来。
The mango is a gift of love, a lubricant for dealmaking, a plausibly deniable bribe, a reward, an indulgence and a necessity. It is part of the very essence of being Indian--or Pakistani.
芒果是表达爱的礼物，是交易的润滑剂，是可以合理抵赖的贿赂，是奖励，是享受，也是必需品。它是印度人----或者巴基斯坦人----本质的一部分。
That makes it a potent tool of diplomacy. Indian leaders have presented crates to American presidents, Pakistanis to Chairman Mao and the Indian prime minister.
这使芒果成为一种强有力的外交工具。印度领导人向美国总统赠送过成箱的芒果，巴基斯坦人向毛主席和印度总理赠送过。
However, most of South Asia's mangoes stay at home. India is the world's biggest mango producer. Yet its share of the global export market by value is a meagre 7%.
然而，南亚的大部分芒果都留在了国内。印度是世界上最大的芒果生产国。然而，按价值计算，印度在全球芒果出口市场的份额仅为微不足道的7%。
This is the West's loss. If Americans and Europeans are not besotted by mangoes, it is because they have tasted only the more mediocre produce of Mexico and Brazil.
这是西方的损失。如果美国人与欧洲人不痴迷于芒果，那是因为他们只品尝过来自墨西哥和巴西的非常普通的芒果。
The mango, as every South Asian knows, is as much about social bonds as about flavour. A fruit this fine demands to be shared.
正如每个南亚人所知，芒果不仅关乎味道，也关乎社会纽带。如此美味的水果，值得与世人分享。
