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257期|一位记者尝试了TikTok推荐的餐厅

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TikTok is many things: a place for slime videos, a free therapy session, the leading source of information in America right now, and, for some, the ultimate restaurant resource.

TikTok身兼数职:它是一个可以看史莱姆视频的地方,是免费的疗愈课程,是目前美国最前沿的信息来源,而且对一些人来说,还是一个终极餐厅资源库。

With a properly tuned algorithm, TikTok can become a never-ending scroll of rhythmic recommendations from critics of varying reliability, many of whom have been paid by restaurants for their P.R.-approved opinions.

TikTok采用了经过适当调整优化的算法,可以有节奏地提供划不到底的种草视频,发布这些种草视频的评论者有的可靠,有的不可靠,其中许多人的观点经过了餐厅公关部的批准,而且可以从中拿钱。

How trustworthy are their suggestions, really? And what can a diner expect from these spots, when videos have promised them perfect vibes, hot singles and even religious enlightenment?

他们的建议到底有多可信?当短视频承诺这些餐厅可以让食客获得完美的氛围、性感的单身汉,甚至宗教开悟时,食客们能抱有什么期待?

To find out, I spent hours on TikTok, going down a digital rabbit hole of restaurant videos, then dined for a week at the whim of my For You Page.

为了找出答案,我花了几个小时刷TikTok,跳进了餐厅视频的数字兔子洞,然后跟着我的主页推荐随意去不同餐厅吃了一个星期。

1. ‘New York’s hottest new restaurant’: Meduza Mediterrania.

1. “纽约最火的新餐厅”:美杜莎地中海餐厅。

Thistle Swann and Jacob Cummings, who met on Hinge, put their faith in the internet once more to choose their anniversary dinner locale. “I just looked up ‘fancy restaurants’ on TikTok,” Mr. Cummings said.

希瑟·斯旺和雅各布·卡明斯是在约会软件Hinge上认识的,他们在选择周年纪念晚餐地点时决定再次把信念寄托在互联网上。“我直接在TikTok上搜索‘时髦餐厅’,”卡明斯说。

That’s how the couple, both 25, found themselves below a huge fake tree sprouting from the middle of the dining room at Meduza Mediterrania, a clubstaurant in the Meatpacking district with a strict dress code (no sweatpants, shorts or jerseys) and a pricey raw bar.

于是这对同为25岁的情侣就坐在了一棵巨大的假树下,这棵假树从美杜莎地中海餐厅的中央耸立而出,这家餐厅是位于米特帕金区的一个俱乐部餐厅,有严格的着装要求(不能穿运动裤、短裤或运动衫)和价格昂贵的海鲜吧。

Meduza’s website calls it “a dining experience that takes you on a journey to a world of sunlit coasts, sparkling waters and vibrant culture.” I didn’t find any geographic marvels, but I was surprised to find the food terrific.

美杜莎网站称“在这里就餐可以让你感受到阳光灿烂的海岸、波光粼粼的海面和充满活力的文化”。我没有在餐厅发现任何地理奇观,但我惊讶地发现那里的食物超级赞。

The couple agreed, though admittedly, they never go out for nice dinners. “But,” Mr. Cummings said at the end of the meal, “I’m gonna be honest, it was not $800 delicious.”

两人也认为食物很好,“但是,”卡明斯在用餐结束时说,“老实说,没有好吃到值800美元。”

2. ‘Literally a religious experience’: Quality Bistro.

2. “简直是真正的宗教体验”:优质小酒馆。

“Your life will be forever changed,” said Rebecca Schneider, who posts as @boujeebitesonly, about a (comped) dinner at Quality Bistro — specifically, the table-side butter service.

“你的人生将永远改变。”丽贝卡·施耐德在优质小酒馆吃了(免费)晚餐后说,她的TikTok账号是boujeebitesonly,她特别提到了桌边黄油服务。

Here’s how the profound event begins: A server carts over a bucket with a half-foot mound of butter emerging from it. With a wooden spatula, they scoop out a baseball-size blob of butter, smear it onto a marble plate and top it with pimente d’espelette, minced shallots and salt.

这个隆重的服务是这样开始的:服务员用小推车运来一个大桶,里面盛着半英尺高、堆得冒出桶沿的黄油堆。服务员用木铲挖出一块棒球大小的黄油,涂在大理石盘子上,然后在上面放上埃斯佩莱特辣椒、红洋葱末和盐。

For $38, the butter plate comes with oiled toast, radishes and a bouquet of their leaves, cornichons, two dips, a cold leek dish and slices of ham folded like linen napkins.

一盘黄油的价格是38美元,附带油煎吐司、樱桃萝卜和一束萝卜叶子、腌黄瓜、两份蘸酱、韭葱凉菜和叠得像亚麻餐巾一样的火腿片。

I wouldn’t say I found God at Quality Bistro, but more disappointingly, I didn’t find a husband.

我不会说我在优质小酒馆找到了上帝,但更令我失望的是,我也没有找到老公。

After seeing a number of videos mention the hunky clientele — Ariana Nathani (@ariana.nathani) said “everybody here was a finance daddy,” and Tiff Baira (@tiffbaira) called it “the best NYC restaurant to meet eligible bachelors” — I found only groups of millennial women drinking espresso martinis and families celebrating birthdays, sparklers in their desserts.

我看到很多视频都说来这里吃饭的客人高大英俊--爱丽亚娜·那桑尼(@ariana.Nathani)说“这里的所有人都是金融帅大叔”,蒂芙·贝拉(@tiffbaira)说这里“是最能遇到黄金单身汉的纽约餐厅”--但我只看到一群群喝浓缩咖啡马提尼的千禧一代女性,以及甜品上插着烟花棒、正在庆祝生日的家庭。

重点单词   查看全部解释    
rhythmic ['riðmik]

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adj. 有节奏的,有韵律的

 
smear [smiə]

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vt. 涂抹,涂去,弄脏,诽谤 n. 污点,涂料,诽谤

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marble ['mɑ:bl]

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n. 大理石
vt. 使有大理石的花纹

 
scroll [skrəul]

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n. 卷轴,目录 v. 卷动

联想记忆
reliability [ri.laiə'biliti]

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n. 可靠性

 
emerging [i'mə:dʒ]

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vi. 浮现,(由某种状态)脱出,(事实)显现出来

 
clientele [.klaiən'tel]

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n. 诉讼委托人,(总称)客户

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ultimate ['ʌltimit]

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n. 终极,根本,精华
adj. 终极的,根本

 
source [sɔ:s]

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n. 发源地,来源,原始资料

 
bouquet [bu'kei]

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n. 花束
n. 酒香

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