The current environmental and human exploitation of the fashion industry will not end by going to the thrift store or buying so-called ethical or sustainable clothing.
时尚业目前对环境和人类的剥削,不会因为人们去旧货店买衣服,或购买所谓的道德的或可持续的服装而结束。
These things do help in a small way, but they are ultimately just chipping away at the edges.
这些做法确实有一点帮助,但归根结底只是动了点皮毛而已。
This might feel a little defeatist–like there’s nothing we can do except cross our fingers and hope that the capitalist class will see the flaws in their ways and change.
这可能会让人感觉有点失败主义--就好像我们无能为力,只能祈祷,希望资产阶级看到他们做法的缺陷并做出改变。
If that is what you’re waiting for, unfortunately, the competition and profit-model of capitalism makes that hope impossible.
如果这就是你所期待的,那么很不幸,有资本主义的竞争和盈利模式在,这种希望就不可能实现。
But, if we know that true environmental and ethical change has to come from the point of production, that means that the very workers in sweatshops, in textile mills, and in garment factories, have immense power.
但是,如果我们能意识到真正的环境和道德变革必须从生产的角度着手,那就意味着血汗工厂、纺织厂和服装厂的工人拥有巨大的权力。
These workers have the ability to disrupt or even outright end the dual exploitation of people and planet at the hands of fashion capitalists.
这些工人有能力扰乱甚至彻底终结时尚资本家对人们和地球的双重剥削。
Indeed, some of the biggest gains in worker liberation and environmental justice didn’t stem from sustainable clothing hauls or choosing to buy less.
事实上,在工人解放和环境正义方面取得的一些最大成就,并非源于可持续的服装运输或减少购买。
They came from textile workers agitating for change.
而是来自鼓动变革的纺织工人。
From the 20,000 women going on strike across New York City in 1909 to demand better working conditions, to the Lawrence Textile Mill Strike, to the 400,000 strong textile strike all over the US in 1934, to the collective efforts of hundreds of textile unions after the Rana Plaza collapse that forced major clothing brands into a legally binding accord demanding more humane conditions and better pay for factory workers.
从1909年纽约市2万名妇女为要求更好的工作条件而罢工,到劳伦斯纺织厂罢工,再到1934年全美40万名纺织工人罢工,再到拉纳广场大楼倒塌后数百个纺织工会的集体努力,迫使各大服装品牌签订了一项具有法律约束力的协议,要求为工厂工人提供更人性化的工作条件和更高的工资。
When textile workers collectivize, and consumers show solidarity by boycotting and divesting, they are remarkably successful at disrupting the flow of profits into capitalist wallets.
当纺织工人集团化,消费者通过抵制和撤资表现出团结时,他们在扰乱利润流入资本主义的钱包方面取得了显著成功。
But these are all just small stitches in a much larger tapestry of change.
但如果把变革比作一副大挂毯的话,这些都只是一些小针脚罢了。
Because fashion is so intertwined with capitalism, we need to end capitalism in order to end fast fashion.
由于时尚与资本主义如此紧密地交织在一起,我们需要终结资本主义,才能终结快速时尚。
There are many paths towards more ethical and environmentally sound clothing practices.
有很多途径可以使服装更加合乎道德和环保。
A future with clothing not reliant on worker exploitation, pollution, or waste is one in which the workers laboring in textile factories communally own that textile factory and decide democratically what gets made.
服装不依赖于工人的剥削、污染或浪费的未来,是一个纺织厂的工人共同拥有这家纺织厂,并民主决定生产什么的未来。
A factory where the designers are the workers and the workers are the designers.
在未来的工厂里,设计师就是工人,工人就是设计师。
In this economic model, production is not based on how much we can make and sell, but instead how much we need to feel comfortable and happy, thus degrowing art production and lessening our environmental impact.
在这种经济模式下,生产不是基于我们能生产多少和出售多少,而是我们需要多少才能感到舒适和快乐,从而减少艺术生产,并减少对环境的影响。
As Tansy Hoskins notes “Socially organized production would end over-production because no one not reliant on wages is going to vote to work 15-hour days seven days a week on an assembly line to produce 20 billion pieces of clothing.
正如唐茜·霍斯金斯所指出的,“社会组织的生产会终结生产过剩,因为但凡是不依赖工资的人,都不会投票支持在流水线上一周七天每天工作15个小时来生产200亿件衣服。”
The only people that need such vast quantities of clothing are the people that sell them at a profit; under collective ownership their role would have ceased.”
唯一需要这么多衣服的人是那些卖衣服赚取利润的人;在集体所有制下,他们就没有任何作用了。
In addition, collective ownership means an end to disasters like the Rana Plaza collapse, because no worker is going to vote to work in deadly conditions.
此外,集体所有制意味着像拉纳广场大楼倒塌这样的灾难不会再发生,因为没有工人会投票支持在致命的条件下工作。
In short, the model of socialism would put an end to the waste, pollution, and exploitation that is crucial to fashion under capitalism.
简而言之,社会主义模式将终结对资本主义时尚至关重要的浪费、污染和剥削。
But revolutionizing our economic system won’t happen overnight.
但是,彻底改变我们的经济体系不会一蹴而就。
Workers need to build power, we need to organize and we need to build networks of solidarity across industries.
工人需要积攒力量,我们需要组织起来,我们需要建立跨行业的团结网络。
Along the way of building that power, we can implement methods that reduce the harm of the current industry.
在积攒这种力量的道路上,我们可以采取一些方法来减少当前行业的危害。
This might look like prioritizing hemp fibers in production over synthetic, fossil-fuel-based materials, raising wages, making and buying more durable clothes that last ten years instead of ten days, or even finding ways to continue to use fabrics after they’ve ripped or torn.
可以是在生产中优先考虑大麻纤维,而不是合成的、以化石燃料为基础的材料;提高工资;生产和购买更耐用的、可以穿十年而不是十天的衣服;甚至是想办法在面料被撕裂后继续使用。