But let’s backtrack for a second to one of the earliest photographs of the chair I could find.
但是,让我们先将时光稍微倒回一点,回到我能找到这张椅子的最早的照片上。
It’s not of a movie star.
那并不是一张电影明星的照片。
It’s a portrait of a mother with her child, published around 1914.
而是1914年左右公布的一张一位母亲和她孩子的照片。
It’s titled “Jail bird in a peacock chair.”
照片名为“孔雀椅上的囚犯”。
This woman was a prisoner - serving life for killing her husband.
这名女子是一名犯人——杀害了自己丈夫的她被判了终身监禁。
And it was likely taken at Bilibid Prison in the Philippines.
这张照片很可能是在菲律宾的比利比德监狱拍摄的。
At the time the photo was taken, the Philippines were under US rule, and American tourists were visiting the islands by the boatloads.
照片被拍摄时,菲律宾还处于美国的殖民统治之下,美国游客可乘船前往菲律宾诸岛旅游。
Bilibid Prison was an unlikely attraction - not only did it serve as a jail — it was also a manufacturing facility.
比利比德监狱意外地成了一个景点——不仅仅是因为它是个监狱——它还是个加工厂。
Equipped with its own sales department for shoppers to pursue.
所以,该监狱有自己的销售部门,方便采购者到场采购。
This 1913 write-up from an American tourist describes the place and mentions the infamous chair:
这篇评述是某美国游客1913年写的,其中就描述了此地,还提到了这款在当时名声相当不好的椅子:
“We are familiar with the queer shaped chair made of rattan called by some ‘Peacock chair’.
“这款用藤条编织,造型奇怪,被一些人称之为‘孔雀椅’的椅子我们已经很熟了。
It is made at Bilibid Prison.”
它就是比利比德监狱出产的孔雀椅。”
And a 1916 Vogue article about “Shopping in the Far East” says a stop at the prison is a must.
1916年,《时尚》杂志上一篇题为“在远东购物”的文章甚至还表示,比利比德监狱是旅菲之行不容错过的一站。
This nameless prisoner likely took part in making those chairs.
这位不知名的囚犯可能也参与了这种椅子的制作。
She wasn’t famous or a powerful figure — but sitting in the chair transformed her into something regal.
她算不上什么名人,也算不上什么权贵,但坐到这把椅子里,她就变成了某种帝王般的存在。
By the 1960s, dozens of iconic figures had posed with that same chair.
到60年代,与这把椅子合影的标志性人物就已经有数十个之多。
Poets, writers, presidents, Famed actresses.
诗人、作家、总统、著名女演员……
The chair appeared in television and film Like in My Fair Lady, which was set during the turn of the 20th century.
这把椅子也出现在了大量的电视和电影,比如故事背景设置在20世纪初的《窈窕淑女》里。
Cecil Beaton, the set designer for the film, was obsessed with wicker furniture.
因为这部电影的布景师塞西尔·比顿对藤编家具非常痴迷。
This picture of Marilyn Monroe? He took it.
这张玛丽莲·梦露的照片?他拍的。
In the 1960s, album cover designers picked up on the trend.
上世纪60年代的专辑封面设计师也注意到了这一潮流。
And over the next two decades, portraits of artists in the peacock chair peristed.
因此,接下来的二十年里,坐在孔雀椅上拍肖像照的艺术家逐渐多了起来。
These covers can be broken up into a few categories.
这些封面可以分成几个类别。
One I like to call the casual leg.
第一种我喜欢叫它“放松腿”。
There’s the close-up.
第二种是特写。
And the group shot.
第三种是集体照。
For this one, the person is just randomly in an open field.
还有这种,人物以随意的状态出现在旷野中的照片。
And finally, there’s this one.
最后是这种。
Best represented by Funkadelic’s 1979 album “Uncle Jam Wants You” which references two specific things.
而这最后一种中,最具代表性的又要数疯克德里克乐队1979年的专辑《Uncle Jam Wants You》。这张专辑的封面隐射了两件事。
The “Uncle Sam Wants you” Army recruitment poster.
一个是招兵海报“山姆大叔需要你”。
And this photo of Black Panther Party co-founder and leader, Huey Newton sitting in the peacock chair.
另一个是黑豹党联合创始人和领导人,休伊·牛顿坐在孔雀椅里拍的这张照片。
In 1967 when that photo was taken - it immediately became a visual representation of the Black Power movement.
1967年这张照片一经面世,立即就成为了黑人权力运动的视觉表征。
And the chair took on a whole new meaning.
这把椅子也因此有了全新的含义。
It showed up at Black Panther meetings and rallies, even when Newton couldn’t.
黑豹党举行的数次会议和集会上,甚至是牛顿都不能出现的场合都有它的身影。
It took up residence, in all it’s glory at the center of the stage.
真可谓是众星拱月,极尽荣耀。
While most album covers with the peacock chair drew their inspiration from the casual glamour of mid-century celebrity portraits,
虽然大多数带有孔雀椅的专辑封面的灵感都来自于20世纪中期散发着随性气息的名人肖像,
some artists saw it as an assertion of their cultural power — even today that’s one of this chair’s most lasting legacies.
一些艺术家则将其视为了对他们文化力量的一种宣示,即使是在今天,这也依然是这把椅子最能经受考验的光辉之一。
The peacock chair album cover petered out in the 1980s and was replaced by more minimalist and intimate portraits of people.
80年代,搭孔雀椅拍专辑封面这一趋势便逐渐没落了,取而代之的是更简约,更亲切的肖像照。
But it remains one of the most referenced chairs in photography-
尽管如此,孔雀椅依然是摄影史上出镜率最高的椅子之一——
perhaps because it makes everyone sitting in it look really cool.
也许是因为它让坐在里面的每个人看起来都很酷的原因。