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Did you catch that?
你听懂了吗？
This guy makes more in one day than a doctor makes in a month.
这个家伙一天挣的钱比一个医生一个月挣的钱还要多
And he’s a taxi driver.
而且，他还只是个开出租车的
He’s actually trained as an engineer
事实上他应该当一个工程师
but engineers make even less than doctors.
但工程师挣的钱比医生还少
Welcome to the Cuban economy.
欢迎进入古巴经济
Right after the socialist revolution in 1959,
1959年社会主义革命一结束
Fidel Castro’s government seized almost all private businesses and land.
菲德尔·卡斯特罗立马就控制了几乎所有的古巴私营经济和土地
You won’t have to worry about next year.
你不需要为来年担心
The state will do your planning from now on.
国家现在就会帮你计划
Every restaurant, factory, hospital and home was property of the government.
所有的餐厅、工厂、医院和住宅都是政府的资产
The State set prices for everything and decided how much people got paid.
国家统一制定物价，人民的工资也由国家来决定
The private sector disappeared overnight.
私营经济在一夜之间消失了
The world this man live in desperately needs: economic reforms.
这个人所生活的国家迫切需要的是：经济改革
You can see the result of this when you go looking for food in Havana.
如果你去了解一下哈瓦那的食物，你就明白这一变化带来了怎样的结果
When I showed up, I was pretty excited to see what street food was on offer.
我到那里的时候，我非常好奇那里都有些什么街头美食
But all i could find was this.
但我只找到了这个
Just this. Ham sandwiches. Everywhere.
只有这个，火腿三明治。到处都是这个
This is a typical scene in a Cuban eatery:
古巴的餐厅通常是下面这个样子：
too many employees in an empty establishment with empty shelves,
空空的餐厅，空空的货架，员工却不少
They just wait for food deliveries from the government,
他们就等着政府给他们分配食品
and putting in their eight hours so they can go home.
混够八个小时，就可以回家了
They get paid the same whether they sell one plate of food, or fifty.
不管他们卖出去的是一盘食物，还是五十盘，他们拿到的薪水都是一样的
This model doesn’t work.
这位模特不工作
Cuba survived for many years with subsidies from the Soviet Union.
有很多年，古巴人都是靠前苏联送来的物资活着
But since its collapse, the economy been getting worse every year.
然而，苏联解体以后，古巴的经济每况愈下
This lady is showing me her government ration cards that she’s kept for decades.
这位女士给我看了她的政府定量供应卡，这个卡她留了几十年了
Cubans use these monthly cards to go the storage house to get their monthly rations.
古巴人就拿着这种按月分配的供应卡去库房领取他们一个月的物资
The government realized this was becoming a problem in the 90s
上世纪90年代，古巴政府意识到这种情况已经成问题了
and has started giving out private licenses,
于是开始发放私营执照
fueling a small but growing private sector.
使得古巴出现了规模不大但在逐步发展的私营经济
I stumbled upon a private restaurant in Havana
在哈瓦那时我偶然碰见了一个私人餐厅
that was a totally different experience than the public ones.
那个餐厅给我的感觉和集体餐厅完全不一样
There was actually movement, and good service.
那家餐厅竟然运转得还不错，服务也很周到
The owners had to actually sell good food
私人餐厅的老板们只有提供可口的饭菜
if they wanted to stay in business.
才能在行业内继续生存下去
Which brings me back to the Taxi driver and the doctor.
这又让我想起了出租车司机和医生的故事
The reason a taxi drivers make so much more than doctors
出租车司机之所以挣得比医生多得多
is because they have private licenses.
是因为他们有私营执照
Their salaries are not set by the state.
他们的薪水不是国家规定的
And they can charge tourists high prices.
他们可以向游客收高价
I paid 25 dollars to get from the airport into Havana.
我从机场去哈瓦那市里，司机收了我25美元
And in that 30 minutes,
就在那30分钟
this driver made more than the average monthly salary of a Cuban,
这个司机挣到的钱就已经超过了古巴的平均月收入
which is $20.
也就是20美元
One of the problems with this is that you have highly trained workers
这种情况会引起诸多问题，其中之一就是，训练有素的人
leaving their trade to go do remedial work in the private sector.
会离开他们所在的行业，到私营行业找一份补救工作来做
This guy is an engineer, but he’s cooking in a private restaurant.
这个家伙是一名工程师，但他现在却去了一家私人餐厅当厨师
These guys are accountants by trade
他们本来是会计
but make a killing driving around tourists on taxi bikes.
却通过开出租自行车发了大财
This woman is a nurse, but she hasn’t been in a hospital in years.
这位女士是一名医生，但她已经好多年不在医院上班了
This guy is an electrical engineer
这个家伙是一名电气工程师
but opened up a barber shop in his house
却在他家里开起了理发店
and makes ten times more than he would in his field of study.
挣的钱却比他干老本行高出10倍
Imagine trying to live on the Cuban average of $20 per month.
试想一下，靠古巴20美元的平均月薪生活是什么样子
When you ask them how they do it,
当你问古巴人他们怎么生活的时候
they all have the same response.
他们的回答只有一个
Just beneath the surface in Cuba is a bustling informal market
在古巴经济的表面之下，还有一个熙熙攘攘的非正式市场
where Cuban’s make an additional income on top of their official salary,
古巴人就是靠着这个市场，在他们的正式工资之外获得额外收入
just to survive.
为了糊口
We tend to associate black markets with dangerous activities.
我们通常会将黑市与危险活动联系在一起
But in Cuba, people sell illegal popsicles, or newspapers —
然而在古巴，人们卖违法冰棒、卖报纸——
not to get rich, but just to survive.
不为发财，只为糊口
But things are slowly changing.
然而，变化也在慢慢发生
Since Fidel’s brother Raul took over in 2008,
2008年菲德尔的弟弟劳尔·卡斯特罗执政以来
the number of private licenses has increased significantly every year.
古巴私营执政正逐年大幅增长
And now 20% of the economy is now private.
现在，古巴20%的经济都是私营经济
But still, most Cubans are jaded by the decades they have had to use illegal creativity just to survive.
然而，大部分古巴人仍被困在被迫兜售非法物资糊口的时代
