影片内容提要：主食是餐桌上的主要食物，是人们所需能量的主要来源。从远古时代赖以充饥的自然谷物到如今人们餐桌上丰盛的、让人垂涎欲滴的美食，一个异彩纷呈、变化多端的主食世界呈现在你面前。本集着重描绘不同地域、不同民族、不同风貌的有关主食的故事，展现人们对主食的样貌、口感的追求，处理和加工主食的智慧，以及中国人对主食的深厚情感。

一、美食中英对照

黄馍馍：yellow steamed bun

葱油椒盐花卷：steamed twisted rolls with scallion and spicy salt

干炒牛河：stir-fried rice noodles with beef

腊汁肉夹馍：Chinese hamburger

羊肉泡馍：pita bread soaked in lamb soup

岐山臊子面：Qishan minced noodles

端午粽子：zongzi

毛蟹炒年糕：rice cake stir-fried with crabs

扁豆焖面：braised noodles with lentil

清明团子：sweet green rice ball

二、中英文台本

第二集《主食的故事》

Episode 2 The Story of Staple Food

中国自然地理的多样变化，让生活在不同地域的中国人，享受到截然不同的丰富主食。从南到北，变化万千的精致主食，不仅提供了人身体所需要的大部分热量，更影响了中国人对四季循环的感受，带给中国人丰饶、健康、充满情趣的生活。

China has diverse natural, conditions across its land. As a result, Chinese people living in different areas enjoy absolutely different but rich staple food. From the south to the north, the diverse staple food provide energy for human bodies. Moreover, they influence people's feelings towards the change of four seasons and enrich the lives of the Chinese.

山西丁村，中原最古老的村落。主妇们最会制作面食。丁村人把加工成粉末状的谷物都称之为面。谷物加工的历史已有上万年。附近曾经出土过最古老的石磨盘。至今同一形制的磨盘还在使用。石磨将谷物研成粉末，再用筛过滤掉粗粒杂质，真正意义上的面食才得以出现。

The Ding Village in Shanxi is the most ancient village in the Central Plains. Housewives here are best at making food out of flour. Local people call the powdered cereals as flour.Cereal processing has a history of over 10,000 years. The most ancient millstone was unearthed just nearby. Today, millstones of the same shape are still being used. Millstones grind up cereals into powders. Sieve out the coarse grains. Then the real flour food appears.

山西是多山少川的内陆地区，蔬菜品种少。家庭主妇们没有条件在副食上进行调剂。为了提高全家人的食欲，只好在各种面食的制作手法上变换花样。一样面食百样吃，加工成餐桌上的美食。这些花样众多的精致面食，无不让人感到纤巧细手的灵动和聪明睿智的丰富想象。

Rich in mountains while lacking rivers, Shanxi is scarce in its vegetable varieties. Housewives cannot do much to enrich the non-staple food. So they figure out different ways of making flour food to increase the family's appetite. Flour is processed into various delicacies on the table.These diverse and delicate foods remind people of the women's nimble fingers and rich imagination.

当丁村的大妈们正忙着为一场寿宴精心制作花馍的时候，黄土高原上的窑洞里飘来了阵阵面香。绥德汉子老黄刚刚蒸好了满满一笼屉黄馍馍。古老的糜【méi】子经过老黄的加工，变得十分香甜可口。从农历十一月开始，每隔三天，他都要骑一个半小时的车，到县城里去卖。

When the women in the Ding Village are busy preparing a birthday feast, a fragrance of flour floats out from a cave house on the loess plateau. Huang Guosheng, a Suide native, just got a tray of yellow buns steamed. Processed by Huang, the glutinous millet becomes sweet and tasty. From the lunar November on, he would ride 1.5 hours to the county town every three days to sell the buns.

绥德县位于陕北丘陵沟壑地区。在今天的绥德，杂粮和小麦是餐桌上的主角，他们被陕北人变换成各种花样。绥德盛产糜子，黄馍馍就是用糜子面做的馒头。

Suide County sits in the hilly-gully areas in Northern Shaanxi. Today, minor cereals and wheat are the main ingredients on the table. Local people make them into diverse dishes. Suide is rich in the glutinous millet resources. The yellow steamed buns are made with this main ingredient.

糜子又叫黍【shǔ】，因为耐旱成为黄土高原最主要的农作物。8000多年前，黄河流域就开始种糜子。糜子蒸煮成饭，口感略差。但是这个本土食物在过去是陕北人最家常的主食。

Due to its drought-enduring nature, glutinous millet became the most important crop on the loess plateau. It was planted along the Yellow River regions more than 8,000 years ago. If the glutinous millet is directly steamed, it doesn't taste good enough. But it used to be the most popular staple food for people in Northern Shaanxi.

糜子分软硬两种。老黄将硬糜子与软糜子按七比三的比例混合，清水浸泡一夜之后上碾，还要再细细地筛一遍才能使用。但是老黄坚定地认为，用机器磨出来的糜子，远远不如在自家石碾子上碾出来的好吃。

There are two types of glutinous millets, the hard and the soft. Huang Guosheng mingles the two based on this proportion: 70% hard glutinous millets and 30% the soft kind, dip them in water over a night and then grind them up on a millstone. Then he would use a sieve to get rid of the rough grains. Huang firmly believes that the glutinous millet powdered by a machine lags far behind those ground up on his millstone.

炒过的糜子会散发出自然的清香，这是老黄最引以为骄傲的制作秘方。揉完的糜子面，要在缸里发酵一夜，经验告诉老黄，包上被子效果最好。

Fried glutinous millet produces natural fragrance. That's a recipe that Huang feels most proud of. After kneading the glutinous millet flour, Huang would put it in a big jar for fermentation for a night. Experience taught Huang to wrap up the jars with quilts to make the buns tastier.

老黄把家安在窑洞里，这种中国黄土高原最古老的居住形式，可以追溯到4000多年前。一位农民辛勤劳作一生，最基本的愿望就是修建几孔窑洞，有了窑，娶了妻，才算成家立业。

Huang's home, a cave house, is the most traditional dwelling format on the loess plateau in China. It has a history of over 4,000 years. For the hardworking farmers here, their basic wish is to renovate a cave into a home and marry a wife. That's how a life gets complete.

老黄和老伴一次做700个黄馍馍，上碾、揉面、发酵前后要花3天时间。两个人从凌晨3点钟开始，一直要忙到晚上9点。老黄的馍馍做得实在，人也实在，一个一块钱，从不还价。在一年中最寒冷的两个月里，老黄能卖出15000个黄馍馍，刨去成本，一个冬天他的实际收入大约是8000元。

Huang and his wife can make 700 buns every time. Grinding up, kneading and fermentation, the whole process takes 3 days. The couple works from 3 a.m. through 9 p.m. Huang's buns are good-tasting. And Huang is an honest businessman. One yuan for each bun, no bargain. In the coldest two months of a year, Huang can sell 15,000 buns. Taking into account the cost, he can earn 8,000 yuan in a winter.

老黄在这里养育了一儿一女。现在，孩子们都已经把家安在城市里，不再与土地打交道。然而，老黄不愿意离开，住着自己的窑洞，吃住自己种的粮食，老黄自足而踏实。

Huang has a son and a daughter. Both have settled down in the city. They no longer work on the farmland. But Huang doesn't want to leave. Living in his cave house and eating the food he plants, Huang feels satisfied with his wife.

千百年来，中国人从五谷中获得温饱，而这种碳水化合物营造出的满足感，正是亿万个像老黄这样在土地上辛勤劳作的农民提供的。

For thousands of years, Chinese people gain food and clothing from the five cereals. The feel of satisfaction brought by these carbohydrates is just provided by millions of hardworking farmers like Huang.

秋季，辽阔的中国北方，成熟的小麦决定了大地的基本色。小麦，从河西走廊传入到中 原，因为营养丰富，经过4000多年的本土化历程，成为中国北方栽培面积最广泛的农作物。这种原产于西亚的优良物种，已经成为中国人最重要的主食。

In autumn, the ripe wheat decides the basic color of the land in North China. Wheat was introduced into the Central Plains through the Hosi Corridor. As it contains rich nutrition, it has been the most vastly planted crop in North China after a localization process of over 4,000 years. This species originated from West Asia and has become the most important staple food for the Chinese.

将小麦面粉发酵后，在特制的火坑中烤熟。这种圆形面饼，含水份少，极耐贮藏，是维吾尔家庭常年必备的主食。

After the wheat flour ferments, people bake them in a specially-designed fire pit. This type of round pancake contains little water and can be preserved for a long time. They're the indispensable staple food for Uyghur families in all seasons.

新疆库车，人们用享受美食的方式来庆贺古尔邦节。馕是维吾尔族人最喜欢的主食。馕的叫法出自古波斯语，已有2000多年的历史。

In Kuqa, Xinjiang, people celebrate the Corban Festival with delicacies. Naan is the most favorite staple food for Uyghur people. The name originated from ancient Persian and has a history of over 2,000 years.

馒头最早出现的时候，名字叫炊饼也叫 蒸饼，是中原地区最受欢迎的主食。只有中国人的祖先从水煮食物的原理中获得灵感，并使中国成为最早用蒸汽烹饪的国家。

When they first emerged, steamed buns were called Chui cakes and steamed cakes. They are the most popular staple food in the Central Plains. Ancient Chinese people were inspired by the water boiling food theory. They made China the earliest country to cook with steam.

中国的五谷，始终是一个变化中的概念。大约两千年前，五谷的排序为稻、黍、稷、麦、菽，而今天，中国粮食产量的前三名已经变成稻谷、小麦和玉米。但是无论如何变化，都无法动摇稻米在五谷中的首席地位。

Five cereals in China have always been a changing concept. Around 2,000 years ago, the five cereals were namely rice, broomcorn millet, millet, wheat, and beans. But today, the three grains that rank top in terms of their production volumes are rice, wheat and corn. No matter how things have changed, the leading status of rice remains unchanged.

地扪在侗语里的意思是泉水之源。地处清水江源头的地扪村，一年中阴雨天居多。吴顺玉正在自家的禾仓里取米。在这个潮湿的环境里，禾仓对于稻米的储藏起着至关重要的作用。木制吊脚瓦木结构的禾仓建在水上，可以防火、防鼠、防蚁虫。当地最古老的禾仓，已有300年历史。

In the Dong language, Dimen means the origin of spring. Dimen Village sits at the origin of Qingshui River. It mostly rains throughout a year. Wu Shunyu is fetching rice from their own barn. Barn plays a vital role in the storage of rice. The barn of tile and wood structure was built above the water to prevent fire, mice and insects. The most ancient barn here has a history of 300 years.

吴顺玉家在禾仓里储藏的是没有脱壳的稻谷，这能长时间保持稻米新鲜的口感。今天取的米要当做礼物，送到村头同族的一户人家。在地扪，生产完的妇女为孩子过满月那天，婆家人会把结婚时置办的彩礼送到娘家来，新家庭成立的仪式才算最后完成。同族的女眷们也会挑篮提篓，她们还在新米上放上鸡蛋，表示对新生命诞生最诚心的祝福。

The rice Wu Shunyu has fetched is with shells. The fresh taste of rice can be preserved with the shells. The rice Wu fetched today would be presented as a gift to a family in their village. In Dimen, after a woman gives birth and her baby reaches the age of one month, her parents-in-law would send her the betrothal gifts. That marks the official formation of a new family. Other women in the village would also send baskets with new rice and eggs. That represents the most sincere blesses for the newly-born.

米粉是贵州黎平最重要的米制品，在当地集市上随处可见。这里的人最喜欢吃的是这种汤粉，细腻的米粉再配以火辣的肉汤，一日三餐都可以作为主食。把浸泡后的新鲜大米磨成米浆，是杨秀霞做米粉的第一步。舀浆、上笼，米浆在沸水中用旺火蒸熟，晾凉，收存。这是典型的中国南方米粉作坊。洁白如玉的米粉，留有余温，在雾气缭绕中散发着独特的稻米清香。杨秀霞和丈夫配合默契，这样的每一个动作，他们都重复了无数遍。

Rice noodles are the most important rice product in Liping, Guizhou. They can be seen everywhere on the local markets. People here love the noodles in soup the most. Refined rice noodles in the spicy broth can be served for any of the three meals daily. Grind the dipped fresh rice into rice milk, that's the first step for Yang Xiuxia to make to rice noodles. Scoop out the milk, steam it. The rice milk is steamed on the boiling water, air dry it and store it. This is a typical rice noodle workshop in South China. As white as jade, the rice noodles preserve some warmth and produce the unique fragrance of rice. For every movement, they've repeated for hundreds of times.

经过春耕、夏耘、秋收、冬藏，如今超过65%以上的中国人食用稻米。中国是全世界水稻栽培历史最早的国家，7000年前，长江流域就开始种植水稻。稻子从一丛丛青翠的秧苗，出落成为黄金稻谷，配合着各地的饮食习俗，做出吃法多样、口味丰富的米食。

Plowing a field in spring, hoeing and weeding in summer, harvesting in autumn and storing up in winter. Today, more than 65% of the Chinese eat rice. China is the earliest country to plant rice paddy. Some 7,000 years ago, rice paddy was grown in the Yangtze River areas. From the green rice shoots to the golden paddy, rice has been made into different foods based on people's diverse eating habits.

与黎平米粉做法非常相似的是广州人最爱吃的一种米食----河粉，150年前在广州沙河一带出现，于是这种食物也叫沙河粉。沙河粉更加薄而透明，口感更柔韧爽滑。用沙河粉作为主食，广东人最接受的就是这道干炒牛河，这也是对广东厨师基本功的一大测试。干炒牛河讲究锅气，必须猛火快炒，炒匀之余，又得保证粉的完整。在习惯吃面的北方人眼里，这大概就是用米做的面条吧。

Guangzhou natives also love rice noodles, which are cooked similarly to Liping rice noodles. Around 150 years ago, rice noodles first appeared is Guangzhou. The rice noodles here are thinner and more transparent and they taste more tender and smooth. The most popular rice noodle product emong the Cantonese can be this stir-fried rice noodles with beef. This dish is a test of a Cantonese chef's basic skills. To make this dish perfect, chefs have to fry the noodles on vigorous fire. While frying the noodles evenly, chefs also have to guarantee the intactness of the noodles. People in North China like eating flour products. The noodles in the south are made of rice.

1000多年前，中国以秦岭、淮河一线划分出南稻北麦的农业分布，因此造成了南方人爱吃米、北方人则离不开面食的现象。

More than 1,000 years ago, China was divided by the Qinling Mountains and Huaihe River in terms of the rural pattern: rice in the south and wheat in the north. Therefore, people in the south love eating rice and those in the north cannot live without wheaten food.

几千公里外的西安，老城区里的这家饭馆永远站满了等候的人。能够让直爽的关中人这样耐心等待的，大概只有肉夹馍了。

Thousands of miles away in Xi'an, this restaurant in the old city town is always filled with people waiting. What can keep the local people wait so patiently can only be the marinated meat in baked bun.

在西安，馍是最被当地人接受的主食，而肉夹馍则是馍的最经典吃法。肉夹馍是两种食物的绝妙组合----白吉馍和腊汁肉。西安人吃的白吉馍用火烤制，加入三十多种调料慢火熬制而成的肉，软糯浓郁，馍的平淡更加凸显出肉的醇香。

In Xi'an, this type of baked bun is the most widely accepted steple food. The marinated meat in baked bun in the most classic way to enjoy the buns. Marinated meat and baked bun are the perfect combination. The buns Xi'an people eat are baked on fire. The meat is made with 30-plus seasonings and is stewed with gentle heat. So it tastes soft and glutinous. The plain buns can better highlight the mellow meat.

西安人曹石和朋友组了一个用西安方言演唱的说唱乐队，身兼大学教师、乐队主唱、作词等多种角色。他在这首描写陕西平民美食的说唱里，一连串列举了几十种诱人的美食。

Xi'an native Cao shi founded a band with a few friends. They sing in Xi'an dialects. Cao is a college teacher and also the lyric writer for the band. In this song, he lists dozens of local delicacies in ordinary people's loves in Shaanxi.

历史上的西安曾经是世界上最繁华的都市，13个王朝在这里建都。全世界的人都汇集在这里，带来了各地不同的美食。直至今日，这里依然是中国人的主食天堂。

Xi'an was once the most prosperous city in the world. Thirteen dynasties set up their capitals here. People from around the world gathered here, bringing the place diverse delicacies. Today, Xi'an remains a heaven of staple foods for the Chinese.

泡馍也是从馍变化出来的一种西安主食。每个人根据自己喜好的口感，掰出大小、形状不一的馍块。对西安人来说，这个举手之劳是一个弥足享受的过程。

Paomo, another staple food in Xi'an, originated from the baked buns. Based on their own preference, people can tear a bun into different sizes. As for Xi'an natives, this process is what they enjoy very much.

在西北，主食和汤的完美融合，除了牛羊肉泡馍，还不能漏了兰州牛肉面。兰州人的早晨是从一碗牛肉面开始的。这个黄河穿城而过的城市，有着一千多家清真拉面馆，每天要消耗一百万碗以上的牛肉面。柔韧、滚烫的口感是兰州拉面令人赞不绝口的关键。

In Northwest China, chopped-up baked buns in lamb or beef broth is a perfect combination of staple food and soup. Another example can be the Lanzhou beef noodles. Lanzhou natives start their days with a bowl of beef noodles. With the Yellow River crossing the city, Lanzhou is home to over 1,000 Muslim noodles shops. Everyday, more than 1 million bowls of beef noodles are consumed. People have lavished praise on the tender and hot Lanzhou noodles.

一百年前，回族人马保子把煮过牛羊肝的汤兑入锅中，清香扑鼻的热锅子面大受欢迎。牛肉汤的清与浊是检验牛肉面是否正宗的秘籍之一。一碗绝佳的牛肉拉面应该具有汤汁清爽、萝卜白净、辣油红艳、香菜翠绿、面条黄亮五个特点。马保子又在和面时创造性地加入了蓬灰水，这使得面团更加富于弹性。全部工序要靠手工操作。

One hundred years ago, a Hui ethnic person Ma Baozi poured the water, in which the beef and lamb livers were just boiled, into a pot. Noodles made in that pot won popularity immediately. The clarity of the beef broth is the way to check if the beef noodles are authentic. The best beef noodles should acquire the following five features: clear soup, clean white turnips, brilliant red chili oil, green parsley and yellow noodles. When kneading the flour, Ma Baozi creatively added some special water, whose main component is potassium carbonate. That made the flour more elastic. All the procedures are manual.

马文斌是兰州牛肉拉面的第四代传人，他在拉面馆里工作了40年。要想拉出粗细不同的大宽、韭叶、毛细、荞麦棱子，不但要臂力过人，对力道的控制还要刚中带柔。同样的麦子，磨成同样的面粉，却可以做出不同的面条，表现出不同的精彩。

Ma Wenbin is the fourth-generation successor of Lanzhou beef noodles. He's been working in a noodle shop for 40 years. To pull the dough into noodles of different thickness, a chef needs to have extraordinary strong arms and also exquisite skills in controlling his strength. The same wheat and the same flour, but different noodles and different wonders are produced.

对于面条的口感，南方人和北方人的要求也有着天壤之别。广州人喜欢的这种细面，与兰州拉面口感完全不同，爽脆弹牙，韧性十足。华南地区的广东，尽管稻米一年能熟两到三季，也并不妨碍广东人爱吃面。

For the mouthfeel of noodles, people from the north and south have absolutely different requirements. The Cantonese like this type of slim noodles, which are completely different from Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles. These noodles taste crispy, elastic and chewy. Rice paddy gets ripe in Guangdong for up to three seasons out of a year. But that doesn't prevent the Cantonese from loving the noodles.

和这种面用的是鸭蛋，使用传统的方式和好面团之后，最关键在于压面时的力度。用毛竹碾压面团，用人体弹跳的重力让面团受力均匀。压薄的面皮便可以用来制作面条和云吞皮。这样压打出来的面具有独特的韧性，配上用猪骨、大地鱼、虾籽等材料熬制3个小时以上的汤头，一碗鲜美无比的云吞捞面就成了岭南人的最爱。

Duck eggs are applied in dough making. A bamboo is used to press against the dough. A person jumps while sitting at the other end of the bamboo. Thus, the dough can receive strength evenly. The thin flour can be made into noodles or wanton skin that have special elasticity. Stewing pig bones, ground fish and shrimp eggs for 3 hours, and the soup for the tasty wonton noodles is made.

广东人把这种传统方法制作出来的面条叫做竹升面。这种古老的压面方式世世代代沿用至今。

Cantonese call noodles made with this traditional method bamboo noodles. This ancient method of dough pressing has been passed on for generations.

同样是做面，广东人用毛竹，中原人则用的是擀面杖。擀面，是中原女孩子成长中必须要掌握的生活技艺。早面午席是丁村人做寿请客的习俗。为了老伴的70大寿，卫大妈早早地就为宴席上要吃的面食做起了准备。中国人称这碗面叫长寿面。为什么中国人过生日要吃面？面条是怎么成为中国人贺寿的象征呢？有一个说法是，面的形状长而瘦，谐音长寿，面条于是当仁不让地成为讲究讨口彩的中国人最受欢迎的生日主食。

When making noodles, the Cantonese use bamboo while those in the Central Plains apply a rolling pole. Making dough is a skill that girls in the Central Plains must master. Noodles for breakfast and a banquet in the noon is the custom in Ding Village when people hold a birthday feast. To celebrate her husband's 70th birthday, Madame Wai got up early to prepare the flour food. The noodles are called longevity noodles. Why Chinese people eat noodles on their birthdays? How did noodles become the symbol of longevity? It is said that the shape of noodle is both long and slim. In Putonghua, long (chang) and slim (shou) is similar to the pronunciation of longevity (changshou). Noodles are the most popular staple food on birthdays for the Chinese.

在丁村人的寿宴上，一项必须由全村人共同完成的仪式正在进行。吃面之前，挑出一根最长的放在寿星公的碗里，要等他吃下这碗带着全村人寓意长命百岁祝福的面条，一场寿宴才算圆满。

At the birthday banquet in Ding Village, a ritual requiring the participation of all people is ongoing. Before eating the noodles, all the people pick out the longest noodle in their bowl and put it into the bowl of the one who celebrates the birthday. When be eats the bowl with all the long noodles carrying the villagers' best wishes, a birthday banquet can be regarded as complete.

陕西岐山人过寿也吃面。每逢老人做寿，岐山人都会聚在一起，请来秦腔剧团搭台唱戏。这时候一碗热腾腾酸辣可口的岐山臊子面，作为台前台后的最佳配角是绝不可少的。

People in Qishan, Shaanxi also eat noodles when celebrating birthdays. Qishan people would gather together and invite a Qin Melody troupe to perform. At this time, a towl of hot, sour and spicy Qishan saozi noodles is indispensable.

吃臊子面最讲究的要数流水席。早上天刚亮，吃面的流水席就开了。据当地的史志记载，岐山臊子面起源于3000年前，“只吃面、不喝汤”是当地人约定俗成的饮食规矩。

From early in the morning, a feast serving guests with noodles starts. As soon as the guests come, they'll get a bowl of noodles. Local chronicles say that Qishan saozi noodles originated 3,000 years ago. According to the local custom, people only eat the noodles but don't drink the soup.

陕西人把肉丁炒制的配料叫臊子，岐山臊子的做法更为讲究。肉丁切得薄而匀，干煸至透明状，再配以醋和秦椒辣面，文火慢炒。上等的臊子应该是色泽鲜红纯正，口感酸辣突出。这样一勺色泽油亮、辣而不燥的红油臊子，正是岐山臊子面的精髓所在。

The methods to make the ingredients for the Qishan saozi noodles are very particular. Meat is chopped into thin and even dices and dry-fried until they turn transparent. Add vinegar and chili and fry the meat on slow fire. The good-quality ingredients for Qishan saozi noodles are red in color, sour and spicy in the taste. The bright color and spicy taste are the essence of Qishan saozi noodles.

臊子面的配菜讲究五色：木耳豆腐寓意黑白分明，鸡蛋象征富贵，红萝卜寓意日子红火，蒜苗代表生机勃发，红黄绿白黑五种颜色代表了岐山人对生活的美好祝福。几千年来，臊子汤在岐山村村落落的面锅里翻滚着，岐山臊子面更成为一件精彩绝伦的艺术品。

The trimmings for the noodles have five colors. Fungus and tofu mean black and white. Eggs represent wealth. Red carrot symbolizes a prosperous life. Garlic sprouts mean vitality. The five colors, red, yellow, green, white and black represent Qishan people's best wishes for life. For thousands of years, saozi soup has been boiling in every corner in Qishan Village. Qishan saozi noodles have become a wonderful art piece.

岐山臊子面既是饭也是菜，这种饭菜合一的方式在中国人的米食中也随处可见。

Qishan saozi noodles function as both the rice and the dishes. Such a combination of rice and dishes can also be found elsewhere in China.