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Culture
文艺版块
World in a dish
盘中世界
Thinking outside the white plastic box
跳出白色塑料盒思考
A carnivore’s guide to tofu.
给肉食者的豆腐指南。
Suella Braverman, Britain’s former home secretary, blamed “Guardian-reading, tofu-eating wokerati” for a protest that closed a bridge.
英国前内政大臣苏埃拉·布雷弗曼指责“那些读《卫报》、吃豆腐的觉醒文化分子”进行的抗议活动导致一座大桥关闭。（注：此处指要求政府停止新增石油使用的气候活动。）
Ted Cruz, a conservative American senator, complained that Democrats want Texas “to be just like California, right down to tofu”.
保守派美国参议员泰德·克鲁兹抱怨说，民主党人希望得克萨斯州“变得和加利福尼亚州一样，连豆腐也要一样吃”。
Across the West, eating tofu is seen as leftist, weak and somehow unmanly.
在整个西方世界，吃豆腐被视为左派、软弱，以及莫名缺乏男子气概。
This view is silly, and carnivores who hold it are depriving themselves of a healthy, delicious and adaptable source of protein.
这种观点很愚蠢，持有这种观点的肉食者剥夺了自己吃一种健康、美味、适应性强的蛋白质食物的机会。
Tofu—rich in calcium, protein and a variety of minerals—remained obscure in the West until counterculture looked east in the 1960s; Asians have eaten it for millennia.
豆腐（富含钙、蛋白质和多种矿物质）在西方一直鲜为人知，直到20世纪60年代反主流文化群体将目光投向东方，亚洲人食用豆腐的历史已经有数千年。
In some Asian languages, the words for “tofu” and “cheese” are similar, and they have strikingly similar production methods.
在一些亚洲语言中，表示“豆腐”和“奶酪”的词语很相似，二者的制作方法也惊人地相似。
(Animal milk and soy milk are heated, inoculated with a coagulant, pressed and shaped into solid form.)
（动物奶和豆浆被加热，放入凝固剂，然后压制并成型为固体。）
Just as cheeses differ markedly in taste and texture, tofu takes a variety of forms, from delicate silken tofu—delicious as a dessert when dressed with syrup—to the refrigerated boxed-in-water versions.
就像奶酪的口味和质地有显著差异一样，豆腐也有多种类型，从细腻的嫩豆腐（淋上糖浆就是美味的甜点）到冷藏的盒装泡水豆腐。
To detractors, what all these forms share is blandness and virtue.
对于讨厌豆腐的人来说，所有这些种类的共同点是口味平淡和有益健康。
Tofu is wobbly and tasteless; people eat it only because they feel they should or, having sworn off meat for ideological reasons, they must.
豆腐摇摇晃晃，淡而无味，人们吃它只是因为认为自己应该吃，或者因为意识形态原因而发誓不吃肉，所以必须吃豆腐。
In a new book, “Tofu: A Culinary History”, Russell Thomas, a journalist, argues that bean curd deserves better than its worthy reputation.
在《豆腐的烹饪历史》这本新书中，记者拉塞尔·托马斯认为，豆腐值得比其优良声誉更好的评价。
The first step in enjoying it is getting politics out of the kitchen and appreciating its endless versatility.
享用豆腐的第一步是将政治从厨房中移除，并欣赏豆腐的做法之繁多。
Boosters do tofu no favours by calling it a “meat substitute”—generally, it is not.
豆腐的支持者们将其称为“肉的替代品”，这对豆腐无益，而且一般来说，豆腐并不能替代肉。
Nobody will ever mistake pressed bean curd for a seared steak.
没有人会把压制的豆浆凝乳误认为是烤牛排。
But for carnivores who want to reduce their meat consumption, tofu can prove a surprisingly delicious stand-in.
但是对于想要少吃肉的肉食者来说，豆腐可以成为一种意外好吃的替代品。
Extra-firm tofu, crumbled into a skillet, sautéed until dry and well-seasoned, makes a taco filling reminiscent of Mexican chorizo.
把硬豆腐在平底锅里捣碎，炒至变干并入味，这样做成的塔可饼馅料会让人联想到墨西哥辣香肠。
Coated in cornstarch, shallow-fried and sauced, it makes a crisp, light stir-fry.
把豆腐裹上玉米淀粉，浅炸后加酱汁，就是一道酥脆、清淡的炒菜。
Thawed tofu has a porous resilience that soaks up sauce, making it perfect for stews.
解冻后的豆腐多孔、有弹性，能吸收酱汁，非常适合炖煮。
But tofu need not stand in for meat; across Asia, people see no contradiction in eating both meat and tofu, even in the same dish.
但是豆腐不必代替肉，在整个亚洲，人们认为吃肉和吃豆腐并不矛盾，即使同一道菜也可以既有肉又有豆腐。
In mapo tofu, a Sichuanese favourite, chewy nubs of ground beef or pork swimming in a fiery sauce complement silken tofu’s yielding delicacy.
麻婆豆腐是四川人的最爱，筋道的牛肉末或猪肉末浸在辣味酱汁里，与嫩豆腐的顺滑细腻相得益彰。
Soft tofu cut in squares makes a bed for a whole steamed fish bathed in chillies and garlic.
把软豆腐切成方块，可以垫在撒满辣椒和大蒜的蒸全鱼下面。
Smoked or pressed tofu, with its firm and meaty texture, stir-fried with pork and celery, offers a quick and gentle lunch, served over rice.
烟熏或压制的豆腐质地紧实、有肉感，与猪肉和芹菜一起炒，然后盖在米饭上，就是一顿既快捷，又能吃得舒服的午饭。
And though tofu sticks may look shiny and more like industrial products when packaged and dried, paired with chunks of pork belly in a spiced broth, they make a winter stew hearty and delicious enough to convert the most ardent tofuphobe—and remind you never to judge a food by its political reputation.
虽然炸豆腐棒在包装和干燥后可能看起来油亮、更像工业食品，但配上五花肉块，放在辣味肉汤里煮，就是一道丰盛美味的冬季炖菜，足以让最坚定的豆腐恐惧症患者改变看法——也足以提醒你，永远不要根据食物的政治声誉来评判它。
