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Scotland's Outer Hebrides lie on the edge of north western Europe.
苏格兰外赫布里底群岛位于欧洲西北角。
This incredible landscape inspires the colors that are woven into the famous fabric that's made here.
壮观的景色赋予了本土毛料丰富的色彩灵感。
Harris Tweed Hebrides is one of three mills on the island.
哈里斯花呢是岛屿上的三家工厂之一。
Calum is showing me around.
卡卢姆带我参观了工厂。
So Calum, this is your mill.
卡卢姆，这是你的工厂。
And this is the wool.
这是羊毛。
Yeah, so this is the first stage of the Harris Tweed process.
是的，这是哈里斯花呢工艺的第一步。
Yeah.
是的。
It's 100 pure virgin wool.
这是100%纯新羊毛。
That's all we can use in Harris Tweed.
我们在哈里斯花呢只能用这种羊毛。
We can't use any foreign fibers other than 100 percent wool.
除100%羊毛，我们不能使用任何外来纤维。
Shall we have a look around?
我们能四处看看吗？
Yep. Let's go.
当然。我们走吧。
The mill produces over 50 base colors.
这家工厂生产超过50种基础颜色。
Once dyed, these are combined to make infinite blends.
一旦染色，便能形成无数的混合色。
The wool is then carded and spun into yarn.
羊毛梳理后会被纺成纱线。
Protected by parliament, the rules governing Harris Tweed are strict.
受议会保护，哈里斯花呢的管理条例很严格。
The cloth must be woven by the people of the Outer Hebrides.
布料必须由外赫布里底群岛本土人手工纺织。
Derek is one of the island's many weavers.
德里克是岛屿上的诸多织工之一。
Hello, Derek.
你好，德里克。
Hello there.
你好。
So how long does this take to master?
大概要多久才能掌握？
Can anybody do it?
大家都能学会吗？
Well, after a number months I'm sure most people can do it.
学几个月后，大多数人都能学会。
But can you just get on and pedal?
但是能直接上踏板吗？
Yes.
可以。
Can I have a go?
我能试一试吗？
Yes.
可以。
Just don't pedal backwards.
就是被往后踩。
Don't pedal backwards?
不能倒着踩？
Why?
为什么？
What happens if I pedal backwards?
要是我倒着踩会怎样？
Things go wrong.
那就出错了。
OK, all right, so let's have a go.
好的，那我们试一试。
And don't go too fast.
也别太快。
That's it.
就这样。
The complexity of the pattern is absolutely beautiful.
这个图案非常精美。
It's incredible.
无与伦比。
Yep.
没错。
And how long would it take to produce a piece of cloth like this?
生产出这样的一块布料需要多久？
This length here, it would take about three or four hours peddling to do it.
这个长度的话，大概需要三到四个小时。
Non-stop.
不停歇。
Yep.
是的。
Wow.
哇喔。
Yeah.
没错。
Why don't you use an electric loom?
为什么不用电动织布机呢？
Because it's not allowed.
不允许呀。
Not allowed!
不允许！
No, not allowed to be used in Harris Tweed.
是的，哈里斯花呢不允许用。
Is that kind of what makes it so special?
是因为这样才让哈里斯花呢变得特别吗？
Oh, yeah.
是的。
That it's done by hand.
是纯手工的。
My legs are getting tired.
我腿都踩酸了。
You must have...
你肯定……
You must have a great pair of legs.
你肯定腿部很有力量。
It's easy to peddle.
踩踏很容易的。
Yeah?
哦？
Derek, thank you.
德里克，谢谢你。
You're welcome.
不客气。
Once woven, the fabric is brought back to the mill for cleaning and pressing.
纺织完成后，布料要被带回工厂进行清洗和压紧。
Today, we would have had probably about 40 tweets returned from weaving and you've got a few different patterns here that are all sewn together, and running through the machine continuously.
今天，我们大约有40件粗花呢要完成纺织，这里也有几个不同的花纹，经过我们的机器连续地同步缝纫。
Now it's ready for the final stage.
现在准备进入最后一个阶段。
So this is where it gets certified Calum.
卡卢姆，就是在这里认证吧。
Yeah, so this is the final stage of the process.
是的，这是工艺最后一步。
Once our tweed has been woven we take it back into the mill for final finishing before presenting it to the Harris Tweed Authority who will authenticate it with the famous orb logo.
一旦粗花呢完成了纺织，我们会把它带回工厂进行最后精加工，然后再提交给哈里斯花呢官方进行验证，认证无误后打上著名的圆形标识。
And it must have that stamp.
还必须有印章。
Yeah, it must have that stamp to be recognized as Harris Tweed.
是的，必须得有印章才会被视为哈里斯花呢。
Like any fine gent, I want to look the business, so I'm here in Edinburgh to check out the very best in Scottish style.
作为一名绅士，我想要一探究竟，所以，我来到了爱丁堡，里看看真正的苏格兰风格。
Hello, David.
你好，大卫。
Hiya, Paul.
你好呀，保罗。
Hiya, I'm here to try on some of your Harris tweed jackets.
你好，我来这里试一试哈里斯花呢的上衣。
You are indeed.
一定试试。
What do you have for me?
有什么适合我的？
Good to meet you.
很高兴见到你。
Let's have a look.
我们来看看。
Okay.
好的。
So we have our Harris jackets and the rest of our Harris here.
我们有哈里斯外套，其它的哈里斯衣服在这里。
So we've got jackets, we've got coats, waistcoats, more jackets here.
我们有夹克、大衣、马甲，这里还有些夹克衫。
And then we have our Harris Tweed trousers selection at the bottom.
底部是哈里斯毛呢裤子系列。
So normally I'm a 42 regular.
我一般穿42码的。
Cool.
没问题。
Let's have a look see what we've got right for you.
我来看看有什么适合你的。
Oh, we're in luck.
我们很幸运。
We've got a 42-regular right here.
这有一件42码的。
Yeah, can I try it on?
太好了，我能试穿吗？
Oh, wow!
哇喔！
Look at that.
快看看。
And easy in and do your top button up for me.
放松，把最上面的扣子扣上试试。
It feels great.
感觉很棒。
It's nice and heavy, got that Harris weight.
好看又厚实，确实是哈里斯羊毛的份量。
Got the herringbone.
还有人字形设计。
Got all that detail there.
非常细节。
Yeah, all the color that you've got in there.
是的，还有色彩很丰富。
So how popular is Harris Tweed?
哈里斯花呢有多受欢迎？
Incredibly so.
非常有名。
I mean, it has worldwide appeal. People from all over.
全世界都很受欢迎。
We get visitors from all over the world and everybody knows Harris Tweed.
我们接待了来自世界各地的游客，每个人都知道哈里斯花呢。
It's got that worldwide appeal and it's got that worldwide recognition.
它确实是享誉世界。
So you get a lot of international customers.
那你们有很多国际顾客。
We do, yeah.
确实是。
I'd say between 75 to 80 percent of our customers are from abroad, overseas.
75%到80%的顾客是国外来的。
And yeah, those guys are the heart of our business.
这些人也是我们业务的核心。
And, what do they expect?
他们有什么期待？
They expect things to kind of last.
他们想要持久耐用的东西。
They know they're going to get a lifetime's wear out of it.
他们希望衣服能陪伴终生。
They know there's the history and you know they want the fabric.
他们知道哈里斯有历史，他们看重它的材质。
They want the weight, they want the color, they want everything, all the sort of natural thing that comes with Harris Tweed and the full kind of history of that brand.
份量、色泽等等，哈里斯花呢所以天然的东西，以及品牌本身的悠久历史。
It's absolutely beautiful.
确实精美。
I'm very tempted.
非常诱人。
So you should be.
理应如此。
It's a great fit.
非常适合你。
So there you have it, a genuine Harris Tweed.
这就是真正的哈里斯花呢。
That's it for this episode of Crossing Cultures, for now it's goodbye from me here in Edinburgh.
也是本期《中欧非遗》的内容，我在爱丁堡跟大家说再见。
