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The same as hearing a Beatles tune, or rewatching The Snowman at Christmas, or raising up a pint of foaming beer, fish and chips is a national pleasure we expect to repeat and repeat.
如同听披头士的歌曲，在圣诞节重看《雪人》，或者举起一品脱起沫的啤酒一般，炸鱼薯条是我们期望不断重复的国民快乐。
Impossible to imagine eating this meal for the last time.
无法想象最后一次吃炸鱼薯条是什么画面。
When a shop called Kong’s in Greater Manchester announced it would close, following so many others, people massed outside as if for a wake.
当位于大曼彻斯特一家名为“Kong’s”的餐馆步很多餐馆后尘，宣布关店时，人们仿佛是为了守灵一样聚集在店外。
There was a one-hour wait to get inside, then a two-hour wait.
他们要等一个小时才能入店，之后还要等两个小时。
In the queue they joked about buying extra portions, to freeze them and sell them on to anybody suffering Kong’s withdrawals.
在排队的时候，他们开玩笑说要多买一份冷冻起来，将其卖给那些惨遭“Kong’s”餐馆退款的顾客。
We don’t expect these takeaways to be taken away. We imagine dining-in in perpetuity.
我们不希望这些外卖被取消。我们想象着可以永远堂食。
In spring 2023, the Lowford Fish Bar in Bursledon closed, its owners describing the decision as the hardest of their lives.
2023年春天，位于伯斯勒登的“Lowford Fish Bar”关店了，店主称这是他们一生中最艰难的决定。
At around the same time, Jack Spratt’s Superior in Oldham closed after 25 years of continuous trading.
大约在同一时间，位于奥尔德姆的“Jack Spratt’s Superior”在连续经营25年后倒闭。
Skircoat Green Fish Bar in Halifax closed after 40 years.
位于哈利法克斯的“Skircoat Green Fish Bar”在经营40年后闭店。
Jackson’s Chippie in Ilkeston closed after 62 years.
位于伊尔克斯顿的“Jackson’s Chippie”在经营62年后关门。
The owner of Sam’s Fish Bar in Fenton said he was moonlighting as a delivery driver to stay afloat.
位于芬顿的“Sam’s Fish Bar”的老板说，为了维持生计，他兼职做起了送货司机。
Pawsons Golden Plaice in Chorley closed.
位于乔里的“Pawsons Golden Plaice”关店。
Earlier this month, I was back on a tattie run through the East Neuk.
这个月初，我又回到了东纽克的土豆运输路线。
The weekly delivery was no longer being driven by Richard Murray. It was no longer weekly.
每周的送货不再由理查德·默里负责，也不再是每周一次。
With fewer businesses to sell to, potato orders in the region were often so reduced that Murray’s boss, Conor Booth, could handle a delivery using his pickup truck.
由于购买的商家不多，这个地区的土豆订单经常减少，少到默里的老板康纳·布斯就可以用他的皮卡车来应付送货。
Booth met me in the truck and we thundered along the coast road.
布斯在卡车里和我碰面，我们沿着海岸公路隆隆地行驶着。
It was raining, “a real dreich”, Booth said.
当时正在下雨，“真是一场灾难”，布斯说。
As we went, he talked about potato prices, twice what they were a year ago and causing yet another threat to businesses.
我们行驶的时候，他谈到了土豆价格，那时的土豆价格是一年前的两倍，这对店家造成了又一个威胁。
There had been a weak seasonal yield. It was unfortunate timing.
土豆的季节性产量一直很低。这是一个不幸的时间。
In fish and chips, Booth said, “if there wasn’t bad luck, there wouldn’t be any luck”.
布斯说，干炸鱼薯条，“除了厄运以外没有任何运气。”
